With sustainability becoming an essential goal for both consumers and industries, companies are exploring materials that minimize environmental impact. One popular solution in the textile industry is recycled polyester, often touted as a more eco-friendly option than virgin polyester.
However, while recycled polyester offers some clear advantages, it’s essential to consider the entire lifecycle of this material. In this article, we will explore the benefits and downsides of recycled polyester and discuss whether it’s genuinely a sustainable choice.
What is Recycled Polyester?
Recycled polyester, also known as rPET (recycled polyethylene terephthalate), is created by reprocessing plastic products—primarily plastic bottles—and converting them into polyester fibres. This process involves collecting post-consumer plastic waste, cleaning and breaking it down into smaller particles, and then melting it into yarns that can be woven into textiles.
By giving discarded plastic a new purpose, recycled polyester helps reduce waste and conserves the energy required to produce new polyester from fossil fuels.
The production of recycled polyester uses approximately 30-50% less energy than creating virgin polyester, which is derived from petroleum, and reduces greenhouse gas emissions significantly. Many brands, from outdoor gear to high fashion, are adopting rPET as a sustainable alternative for clothing, accessories, and other products, promoting the material as a way to “close the loop” in the textile industry.
Is Recycled Polyester Safe for the Environment?
The environmental benefits of recycled polyester are often discussed, but it’s worth examining whether it truly aligns with sustainability goals. On the one hand, recycled polyester repurposes waste materials, conserving resources and reducing the volume of plastic waste in landfills and oceans. However, there are still challenges to overcome.
The Issue Of Microplastics
One of the main environmental concerns surrounding polyester—both virgin and recycled—is the shedding of microplastics. Microplastics are tiny plastic particles that can enter the environment through various means, such as when we wash synthetic textiles.
With every wash cycle, microscopic polyester fibres are released into the wastewater system. Since these particles are too small to be captured by most water treatment facilities, they eventually make their way into rivers, lakes, and oceans.
Once in the water, microplastics become a major issue. They are ingested by marine life, infiltrate food chains, and accumulate in the bodies of animals and humans alike. Unfortunately, recycled polyester does not eliminate this problem, as it also sheds microplastics.
In some cases, recycled polyester garments may even release more microplastics than their virgin counterparts due to differences in fibre structure created during recycling. While there are initiatives to improve fibre retention, such as washing machine filters and fibre-trapping laundry bags, microplastics remain a significant environmental hazard.
Energy Consumption And Carbon Emissions
While recycled polyester production consumes less energy than creating virgin polyester, it still requires significant energy to collect, process, and melt plastic waste into new fibres. This process is often reliant on non-renewable energy sources, meaning that even though recycled polyester reduces dependency on petroleum-based materials, it’s not a carbon-neutral solution.
Additionally, the recycling process itself can produce carbon emissions, especially if the manufacturing facilities are not designed with carbon neutrality in mind. Although recycled polyester can reduce the carbon footprint compared to virgin polyester, it does not eliminate it.
Some studies suggest that rPET may release toxic chemicals during the recycling process, which can impact both workers’ health and the environment. The presence of chemicals, such as antimony (a catalyst often used in PET production), adds to the complexity of evaluating whether recycled polyester can be fully considered a “safe” alternative.
Alternatives To Recycled Polyester
As the textile industry seeks to become more sustainable, alternatives to recycled polyester are emerging. Several options include biodegradable fibres, natural materials, and innovative textiles that aim to reduce the environmental impact even further.
Natural Fibers
- Natural fibres like organic cotton, hemp, and bamboo offer biodegradable and renewable alternatives to polyester. When responsibly sourced, these fibres break down more easily and do not shed microplastics. However, each natural fibre has its challenges; for instance, cotton production is resource-intensive, particularly in terms of water usage. Hemp and bamboo are more sustainable in terms of growth requirements, but processing these fibres into fabric can still involve chemicals and water use. Yet, as more sustainable practices are developed, natural fibres are increasingly recognized as lower-impact options compared to synthetic materials.
Bio-Based and Biodegradable Polyester
- Another area of innovation is bio-based and biodegradable polyester. Bio-based polyester is created from renewable resources like corn or sugarcane instead of petroleum, reducing dependency on fossil fuels. While these bio-based alternatives are not yet biodegradable in their standard form, research is underway to make them break down in natural environments over time. Biodegradable polyester, designed to decompose faster under specific conditions, holds promise as a sustainable solution. However, widespread adoption is still limited by production costs and technological constraints.
Closed-Loop Systems and Circular Fashion
- In a circular fashion model, materials are designed to be reused and recycled continuously, reducing the need for virgin resources. Some companies are developing closed-loop systems where old garments made from polyester can be chemically recycled back into polyester fibres without the need for external waste sources. While this technology is in its infancy and not yet scalable, it represents a promising path towards a truly sustainable polyester alternative.
The Future Of Recycled Polyester And Sustainable Textiles
Despite its limitations, recycled polyester has made significant strides in reducing plastic waste and providing an alternative to virgin polyester.
As technology advances, the environmental impact of recycled polyester could be further minimized. Innovations like improved fibre production methods that reduce microplastic shedding, carbon-neutral manufacturing processes, and more efficient recycling facilities all have the potential to make recycled polyester a more sustainable option in the future.
Additionally, consumer behaviour and industry standards play crucial roles in the evolution of recycled polyester. As consumers demand more transparency and eco-friendly options, brands are incentivized to invest in sustainable technologies. Similarly, regulations on plastic waste and recycling standards can encourage more responsible production practices and increase the demand for recycled materials.
While recycled polyester is not a perfect solution, it serves as a step towards sustainability in a world where plastic waste remains a massive environmental issue. Adopting recycled polyester alone may not be enough to create a truly sustainable textile industry, but when combined with other eco-friendly practices, it can be part of a larger shift towards more responsible production and consumption.
Conclusion
Recycled polyester is undoubtedly an improvement over virgin polyester, reducing plastic waste and conserving resources. However, it’s essential to recognise its environmental limitations, particularly concerning microplastic pollution and energy consumption. The rise of recycled polyester in the fashion industry reflects a growing awareness of sustainability issues, but it is not without trade-offs.
True sustainability in textiles will likely require a mix of solutions, from embracing biodegradable and bio-based fibres to developing closed-loop systems that maximize resource efficiency. For environmentally conscious consumers, understanding the benefits and downsides of recycled polyester can help inform more sustainable choices.
As new technologies emerge and practices evolve, recycled polyester may become an even more effective tool in combating waste and promoting sustainability. In the meantime, it remains a viable alternative within a broader, multi-faceted approach to a more sustainable textile industry.
Click and read this guide “pros and cons of recycling” for more information.